An A/C system is sealed. If it's low on refrigerant, it leaked out somewhere. Topping it up without finding the leak usually means you're back in a few weeks, so we start by checking the pressures and searching for the leak with dye or an electronic detector.
Once the leak is fixed, we recover what's left, pull the system into a vacuum to boil off moisture and confirm it holds, then recharge by weight to the amount on your car's under-hood label. Older cars use R-134a. Most newer ones use R-1234yf.
The A/C isn't only for summer. On most cars the compressor runs in defrost mode to dry the air, which is why a broken A/C can leave the windshield fogged on a damp November morning.
Why it matters
Toronto summers are humid
A working A/C pulls moisture out of the air as well as cooling it. In July traffic on the 401, that's the difference between a tolerable commute and a miserable one.
Clear windows in cold weather
Dry air from the A/C clears a fogged windshield much faster than heat alone. In fall and winter that's about seeing out, not comfort.
Leaks get expensive
Compressor oil travels with the refrigerant. A system running low starves the compressor, and a slow leak left alone can turn a small repair into a compressor replacement.
Signs it's time
- Air from the vents isn't cold, or only cools at highway speed
- A/C works for a while, then blows warm
- Musty smell when the fan first starts
- Clicking, rattling or grinding with the A/C on
- Windshield slow to clear on defrost
- Water on the passenger-side floor
What's included
- Performance check with vent temperature reading
- System pressure check
- Leak search with dye or an electronic detector
- Recovery, vacuum and recharge to factory spec by weight
- Compressor, clutch and cooling fan operation check
- Condenser checked for damage and blockage
- Cabin air filter inspection
How often
Check it each spring
There's no set interval. Running the A/C or defrost for a few minutes now and then through the winter helps keep the seals from drying out.
